volume 05
issue 45
issue 45 - July/August 2011

Contents

-July/August2011
Affairs

Affairs

Try running this: Slums in Mumbai

Sorting out Mumbai's sprawling slums is no easy task.

Try running this: Rubbish in Cairo

For a man weighed down by up to 19,000 tonnes of solid waste each morning

Try running this: Animal control in Taipei

"The hardest part isn't the killing. It's choosing which ones will die today," says Taipei Animal Shelter and Adoption chief Li Jian-Pei. "It never gets any easier."

Try running this: Transport in Los Angeles

Former bus driver Art Leahy was born in LA and is now the CEO of the County Transportation Authority, which operates the city's bus and rail networks and builds its roads and motorways.

Try running this: Noise Pollution, São Paulo

That 06.15 alarm call is an appropriately rude awakening for Alfonso Orlandi Neto, whose job is to combat noise pollution in South America's most populous city.

Affairs Report: Sergei Sobyanin

One has the task of turning round Japan's only bankrupt city. Another is trying to rebuild a war-torn capital where electricity is a scarce luxury.

Affairs Report: Mohamed Nur

"I was born here in a hospital that still exists but is completely destroyed." Mohamed Nur, 56, could be speaking of any building in Mogadishu, the war-torn Somali capital that it is his job to repair

Affairs Report: Naomichi Suzuki

It is famous as a producer of Japan's priciest premium melons – and as the only bankrupt city in Japan.

issue 45: Mitch Landrieu

New Orleans may be known as The Big Easy, but in his first year as mayor Mitch Landrieu has demonstrated an uncommon hyperactivity

Affairs Report: Eleni Mavrou

Europe Briefing: Who Dares Wins - Sweden

Stockholm is often hailed as one of the world's most beautiful cities. But when it comes to innovative architecture, the city is not mentioned so often.

Europe Briefing: Q&A José Sá Fernandes

A Q&A with the Councillor of Lisbon.

Europe Briefing: Smiles to go - Finland

It's the little things that count – and a happy face is definitely one of them.

Europe Briefing: Green Dreams -Germany

Americas Briefing: Book bus club - Argentina

Calming the unrest among commuters.

Americas Briefing: Paving the way - Venezuela

A Monocle briefing on the pleasures of walking.

Americas Briefing: Living the stream - USA

A redevelop means great things for the landscape of Los Angeles.

Africa/Middle East Briefing: According to plan - Lebanon

A plan a map and a thriving company in Beirut. Monocle catches up with the social entrepreneur who is spear heading the guides to the capitol.

Americas Briefing: Q&A David Bragdon

Africa/Middle East Briefing: Setting up camp - Kenya

The ultimate bush hotel.

Africa/Middle East Briefing: Drive Time - Nigeria

Text the driver out of trouble in gridlocked Nigeria.

Africa/Middle East Briefing: Q&A Andry Andriamanga

Andry Andriamanga is executive secretary of Voahary Gasy (VG), a new environmental alliance trying to keep alive efforts to save biodiversity in Madagascar.

Africa/Middle East Briefing: Dig for Victory - UAE

The UAE aims for a better stockpile to serve their nation.

Oceania Briefing: Quick Buck - Niue

The cues are too long on the tiny island of Niue.

Oceania Briefing: Out on the Town - New Zealand

In earthquake-stricken Christchurch, the suburbs are the new downtown, at least as far as nightlife is concerned.

Oceania Briefing: Going up Down Under - Australia

Australia may have escaped recession during the financial crisis, but its housing industry is showing worrying signs. Demand is outstripping supply, leading to a surge in prices.

Oceania Briefing: Q&A Roger Sutton

As head of the Canterbury Earthquake Recovery Authority, Roger Sutton has an enormous demolition job ahead. But he is also in a rare position to build a radically better city.

Asia Briefing: Reach for the sky - Singapore

Farms are growing upwards in Singapore, Monocle investigates.

Asia Briefing: Farm Favourite - Japan

Commuting and farming may sound like an incongruous mix. But the two activities are brought together in Osaka Station City, a new development at the city's main train station.

Asia Briefing: Taking Charge - Japan

Tokyo may be famous for its neon, but this summer, the city is expected to shift towards a more green approach to electricity.

Asia Briefing: End of an era - Cambodia

If the charm of a city is found in its architecture, then Phnom Penh is considerably less alluring than it used to be.

Asia Briefing: Q&A Serina Hijjas

Serina Hijjas is at the forefront of efforts to make Kuala Lumpur a more sustainable and attractive place to live, drafting a new Green Building Index.

Quality of life: Quality of Life 01 - Helsinki

For our Quality-of-Life issue, Monocle has been busy researching the world's top cities. And with a re-jig of the way each urban centre is assessed, this year's top 25 promises some surprises.

Quality of life: 03 - Copenhagen

A waterside city with a mission – and all the materials to make it

Quality of life: 04 - Munich

Business as usual in the Bavarian capital. Well, almost

Quality of life: 05 - Melbourne

Massive growth puts Melbourne on course to be Australia's biggest city

Quality of life: 06 - Vienna

Continues to move beyond its status as a beautiful outdoor museum

Quality of life: 07 - Sydney

Retail rebirth is not helped by an outdated transport infrastructure

Quality of life: 18 - Portland

The wunderkind in the US northwest slowly learns how to get serious

Quality of life: 08 - Berlin

Berlin continues to fascinate as it transforms in to a world-class city

Quality of life: 09 - Tokyo

An exceptionally challenging year for one of our favourite cities

Quality of life: 10 - Madrid

A transformed city ready to face the future, but at what cost?

Quality of life: 11 - Stockholm

It's good to be green, but architects would benefit from more freedom

Quality of life: 12 - Paris

The French capital finally learns that innovation is not a dirty word

Quality of life: 13 - Auckland

A unified council and a new start for the Rugby World Cup host

Quality of life: 14 - Barcelona

More connected than ever, but still in need of a spring clean

Quality of life: 15 - Singapore

A multiplying population poses challenges for Asia's "garden city"

Quality of life: 16 - Fukuoka

There's nothing marginal about one of Japan's most cosmopolitan cities

Quality of life: 17 - Hong Kong

Poised to play an ever greater role in the world order

Quality of life: 19 - Honolulu

Life's more than just a beach for the United States' island paradise

Quality of life: 20 - Vancouver

Vancouver has bounced back from a shaky start to the Winter Olympics

Quality of life: 21 - Kyoto

Japan's ancient capital has everything that Tokyo is lacking

Quality of life: 22 - Hamburg

Belt-tightening risks throwing away the cultural kudos of Hamburg

Quality of life: 23 - Lisbon

Lisbon is getting a much-needed jolt to clean up its act

Quality of life: 25 - Seattle

One of North America's bridgeheads for Asia has plenty to offer

Business

Business

Business Briefing: Ideas to steal - Perugia

The city: Perugia looks at getting people about in an Eco whilst sill accounting for the tourism industry, its needs and restraints

Business Report: Going South - Montpellier

Montpellier is the fastest-growing city in France and for Monocle it ranks as one the best cities for business. It supports new ventures, with many hi-tech companies setting up there, and has an enviable quality of life to boot.

Business Briefing: Local Heroes - Köln

GAG is a property-management company in Köln that owns a lot of housing in the tougher parts of the city.

Business Briefing: Local Heroes - Tokyo

Honey cocktails. Honey face lotion. Honey macaroons. All things honey-related take centre stage in a community project in Ginza, Tokyo.

Business Briefing: Local Heroes - San Francisco

Mission Chinese Food started out in a truck on San Francisco's Mission Street in 2008.

Business Briefing: Local Heroes - Florence

Most celebrity chefs' good works go no further than the dinner plate. Not Fabio Picchi.

Business Briefing: Local Heroes - Shanghai

Bonita Lim, owner of a fashion design firm in Shanghai called NuoMi (Chinese for "sticky rice"), employs residents with hardships that prevent them from holding down regular jobs – one woman is looking after sick parents, another couple has a child wit

Business Briefing: Ideas to steal - Singapore

The city: Singapore. The ideas in place, what to look for and more importantly, is it a good business model?

Business Briefing: Ideas to steal - Tokyo

The city: Tokyo. Taking the best ideas four ourselves with a look at Japans capital.

Business Briefing: Ideas to steal - Hong Kong

The city: Hong Kong. Is the railway system there something to be admired, and maybe even copied?

Business Briefing: Ideas to steal - Bogotá

The city: Bogotá closes in roads in favor of legs and foot powered wheels.

Culture

Culture

Culture Report: The Voice of the people - Global - Rick Kogan

His grandfather hawked newspapers on a Humboldt Park street corner. His mother wrote occasional articles for her one-time employer, the Chicago Tribune. And his father carved out a name reporting for all of the city's leading dailies over a half-century c

Culture Report: The Voice of the people - Global

Every city has a local media star – perhaps a television anchor, newspaper columnist, singer or author.

Culture Report: The Voice of the people - Global - Wladimir Kaminer

Russian-born author and DJ Wladimir Kaminer's tales of life in Berlin have amused and enlightened readers for more than a decade. "My story and Berlin's story are very intertwined," he says. "They both have two parts: before the Wall and after."

Culture Report: The Voice of the people - Global - Áurea Martins

Áurea Martins doesn't go to the beach and has never visited Rio's Christ the Redeemer statue. "It doesn't interest me in the slightest," the spritely 70-year-old jokes at her fourth floor apartment in Rio's Flamengo neighbourhood.

Culture Report: The Voice of the people - Global - Zeina Daccache

Lebanon's Zeina Daccache, gained popular acclaim with her role as Izo, the ditsy blonde on the political satire show Basmet al-Watan (The Nation's Smiles).

Design Report: Make do and Vend - San Francisco

San Francisco may be small in size, but it has always had big ambition. Now it's leading the way by putting small manufacturers and retailers at the heart of its urban agenda.

Culture Report: Patron Familias - Sydney

Sometimes it's not civic officials who shape the city but passionate families. In Sydney the Kaldors' cultural philanthropy is enriching their city.

Design

Design

Design Briefing: New tube - Poland

Warsaw's metro system is set for an upgrade in 2012, with a fleet of 35 new trains designed by the BMW subsidiary DesignworksUSA for Siemens.

Design Briefing: Beat box - Japan

A piece of architectural design in the mountains.

Design Briefing: Universe City - Global

The world's people will be living in smaller spaces in 40 years. Urban and social challenge?

Design Briefing: Causing a dim - Finland

Design Briefing: Wood works - Japan

What is it about The InBetween House that makes us pine.

Design Briefing: Q&A Aaron Renn

Aaron Renn is a Chicago-based urban affairs analyst and author of The Urbanophile blog.

Design Briefing: Lounging about - Denmark/Finland

There's no better time to invest in some sturdy outdoor furniture.

Design Report: Mapped Out - UK

Cycling navigation can be a nightmare and London suffers badly.

Design Briefing: Rise and Shine - Italy

Urban centres are by virtue noisy places. But this isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Design Report: Paradise in the City - Anywhere

Visit Munich or Melbourne, Seattle or Singapore and you'll come across 'almost perfect' places to live. However, at Monocle we've created the ideal mansion block, with nothing omitted in its design. Now, who's going to build it?

Fashion Briefing: Prom Party - Benidorm

For our summer shoot we're strolling beside the sea in crisp, bright separates, sleek swimwear and smart sunglasses.

The location? A once-mocked resort with some new-wave architecture.

Design Report: Breathing Space - London

When Monocle and sister company Winkreative had to hunt for a bigger London base, they opted for greenery, mid-century architecture and a central location. Welcome to Midori House.

Edits

Edits

Edits: Mellqvist Kaffebar - Stockholm

Every day, a substantial number of Birkastan's residents pass through Mellqvist Kaffebar

Edits: Market Lane Coffee

In the busy lane behind Prahran Market lies Market Lane Coffee.

Edits: Customs Brew Bar - Wellington

A showcase for pioneer Wellington roaster Coffee Supreme (see issue 32), Customs Brew Bar

issue 45: Property Of - Amsterdam

Property Of… is a far cry from the "coffee shops" that attract teenage hordes to less salubrious neighbourhoods in Amsterdam.

Edits: Le Marché St George - Vancouver

Since its opening last winter, the eight-seat Le Marché St George has been doing top drawer turns with beans from local roaster Oughtred.

Edits: Café do Forte - Rio de Janeiro

Cariocas often complain that the Brazilian military have the best views in Rio and Copacabana Fort is no exception.

Edits: Omotesando Koffee - Tokyo

Take one minimalist steel cube frame, drop it inside a traditional Japanese house, add to the mix some of the best coffee making in town – and end result? Omotesando Koffee.

Edits: Din Baghave - Copenhagen

For quality of life a local deli can make a real difference

Edits: Fourth Village - Sydney

"We are very much a local store and know many of our customers by name. Service is as important as what's on the shelves and you should never be too busy to say, 'hello'," says John Quattroville of the family-owned Fourth Village grocery store, which w

Edits: Santa Margherita Ligure, Italy

Seghezzo started out life in 1900 as a traditional drogheria in the Italian seaside town of Santa Margherita Ligure. Staff worked behind the counter and prepared packages of groceries or filled up an empty wine jug for a patron.

Edits: Panther Coffee - Miami

In a city known for its takeaway windows and cafecitos, Panther Coffee invites coffee lovers to linger and learn about the origin of their beverage from farm to plate.

Edits: To Pantopoleion - Athens

To Pantopoleion (meaning the grocery store that sells everything) stocks over 2,500 products including rare cheeses, pastas, wines and even snails cultivated in the town of Corinth.

Edits: 40 Hands - Singapore

With choices limited to sub-standard chain stores serving average coffee, until recently Singaporeans weren't terribly discriminating coffee-drinkers.

Edits: Nolita Mart - New York

New York's Chinatown is one of the city's most distinct neighbourhoods.

Edits: Green Aisle Grocery - Philadelphia

When brothers Adam and Andrew Erace (below) both moved to South Philadelphia's East Passyunk Avenue

My Last Meal: Your are what you eat - New York

Food is an entire philosophy for Alice Waters, founder of restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley

Expo: Rome

Rome's citizens will tell you that too many things just don't work in their city. But it still maintains an enviable quality of life with its markets, piazzas and architectural surprises.

Expo: Seoul

Many cities claim to be 24-hour party places.

But nowhere is a hedonists' dream quite like the South Korean capital. Sure, it's a dizzying mix of people, lights, traffic and consumption. But that's also its great appeal.

Expo: Buenos Aires

European cities battered by the economic crisis can look to Buenos Aires for inspiration. Since the country's collapse in 1999, the Argentine capital has kept its joie de vivre, and turned formerly run-down areas into cultural hotspots.

Expo: Kagoshima

A long, long way from Tokyo, this distinct, defiant, delightful city is unsung to the point that even the Japanese are hardly aware of it. And if you think the view across the Bay of Naples is spectacular…

Expo: Casablanca

You won't see many tourists idling around the crumbling mix of ancient and modern that is Morocco's largest city. You'll be hard-pushed to find much in the way of infrastructure either. Yet the locals adore the place.

 
Monocle Contributors

The writers, photographers, illustrators and stylists who made this magazine.