Off shore
Summer is when locals swap their suede loafers for no-slip deck shoes and set sail. For an outing to one of the area's secluded bathing spots, residents take to the water in nimble runabouts, always sure to pack a hamper with panini and chilled Peroni. Popular destinations include the tiny bay at Paraggi and nearby Punta Chiappa, both just out of earshot from all-too public Portofino and its flashy yachts. Those with well-placed friends might pass the weekend erasing tanlines as they cruise on a classic schooner - we've got our eyes on a streamlined wooden hull number from Cantieri Sangermani - down to Portovenere or farther afield.

Residents
Sand is a rare commodity on the Riviera (hotels truck the stuff in for guests) but locals manage without fuss, sunning themselves on rocky outcrops. Such hardiness is not found in Milan or Rome. Wedged between the sea and sharply folded mountains, residents have learnt to adapt. Every windowsill has a can of basil growing for pesto and hillsides are pocked with rail and road tunnels to overcome the geography. Now if only they could build some more cycling paths.

Focaccia
Despite ready access to seafood, Liguria's best-known food is land-based in origin. Focaccia, the locals' answer to pizza, is right-angled cuts of tasty bread made with little more than flour, salt, olive oil and a few extras (onions, olives) that vary depending on which town along the Italian Riviera you visit. The tastiest type hails from Recco, where Stracchino cheese gets sandwiched between two layers of bread and then served piping hot. Those not keen on stand-up lunches among the sun-lotioned throngs have plenty of alternatives though as rustic eateries are plentiful around Santa Margherita Ligure. We suggest motoring the Vespa up to Nozarego and booking at La Stalla, where picturesque views of the Gulf of Tigullio await. Or like us, you could just stop in a great bar for a glass of the local wine.

Grand Hotel Miramare
Seaside resort towns are only as good as the accommodation they offer. Fortunately, travellers to Santa Margherita Ligure are well looked after, as the Grand Hotel Miramare lives up to its name. Guest rooms open with old-fashioned brass keys, laundered clothes are impeccably starched and the papers promptly arrive by the pool. Its beachfront cabins with private showers are a pleasant welcome after your session of water-skiing behind a sporty Riva, while the property's park with hydrangeas and camellias is the perfect hideaway for a little light summer reading. Evenings are easy with simple courses of baked sea bass in salt and the local "Santa" prawns, all washed down with a bottle of Pigato. After sundown, we retreat to the piano bar for a glass of sciacchetrà.

Grand Hotel Miramare
Via Milite Ignoto
Santa Margherita Ligure
Italy
grandhotelmiramare.it