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Beirut

Beirut has always stood its ground as a kind of playground for Arabs and Europeans in search of oriental frisson. With a return to political stability and new hotels such as the Four Seasons and the renovated souks nearing completion, Beirut is back on the tourist map (though no one knows for how long). Add to that legendary hospitality, a famed party scene and layers of history, and you have a city with a unique patina that visitors and locals cannot seem to get enough of.
 

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Essentials

01 Make sure your passport is free of Israeli stamps.
02 Visas can be obtained at the airport.
03 Arrange pickup to avoid being overcharged by airport taxis.
04 Don't sweat the Arabic, the answer will invariably come in English or French. 
05 Addresses can be approximate. Agree on price and jump in a "taxi service".

Hotels

Affordable and well located
Palm Beach Hotel
Sea Road, Aïn Mreisseh
+ 961 1 372 o00
palmbeachbeirut.com

Dependable and stylish
Albergo
(Relais & Chateaux)
137 Abdel Wahab el Inglizi St, Ashrafieh
+ 961 1 339 797
albergobeirut.com

Premium
Phoenicia Intercontinental
Minet el Hosn,
Downtown Beirut
+ 961 1 369 100
phoenicia-ic.com


Dining

Fast Lebanese breakfast
Zaatar w Zeit
Bliss Street
+ 961 1 365 778
zaatarwzeit.net

Leisurely Breakfast
Café Paul
581 George Haddad Avenue, Gemmayzeh
+ 961 1 570 170

Mid-morning coffee
Rawda
Seaside Manara
(next to Luna Park)
+ 961 1 743 348

Lunch with friends
Gruen Eatery
Gefinor Center
+ 961 1 737 344/ 755 322

Lunch on your own
Boubouffe
(serves shwarma and Lebanese mezze)
Saint-Louis St, Mar Mitr
+ 961 1 200 408

Fish Restaurant
Chez Sami
Old Seaside Road, Jounieh
(Beirut suburb)
+ 961 9 646 064

Afternoon tea/drink
Balima
Saifi Square
+ 961 1 985 295

Dinner with friends
Casablanca
Deir Aïn Mreisseh Street, Aïn Mreisseh
+ 961 1 369 334

Big dinner with friends
Centrale
Mar Maroun Street, Gemmayzeh
+ 961 1 575 858

Dinner for two
Bardo
Mexico Street, Kantari
(near Hagazian University)
+ 961 1 340 060/
70 160 060

Late drinks
Torino Express
7 Gouraud Street, Gemmayzeh
+ 961 3 611 101

Midnight snacks
Barbar
(open 24 hours)
Spears Street, Hamra; every taxi driver knows it
+ 961 1 379 778

Reading

Newsstand
El Bourj
Martyr's Square, at the back of An Nahar Building
+ 961 1 973 797

Books
La CD-thèque
Independence Avenue, Ashrafieh
+ 961 1 321 485
incognito.com.lb
 
Basics
Pharmacie Le Gabriel
Independence Avenue, Ashrafieh
+ 961 1 324 686


Shopping

Something you can't get anywhere else
Fashion and crafts at les Artisans du Liban et d'Orient
Aïn Mreisseh or Mreissé (opposite Palm Beach Hotel)
+ 961 1 362 610

Lost luggage - where to buy shirts, socks and underwear
ABC Mall
Ashrafieh
+ 961 1 212 888

Something for the kids
"I Love Beirut" bibs from Sunflower Mkhallassiyé,
Saifi Village
+ 961 1 999 393

Something for someone you love
Bowls and platters by Karen Chekerdjian at Orient 499
499 Omar Daouk Street,
Ain Mreisseh
+ 961 1 269 499
orient499.com

Two-hour tour

01
Walk in Downtown Beirut
The city centre, a no-man's land during the war, is now gleaming and stylish.

02
Beirut National Museum
Meet the Phoenicians, the mysterious civilisation that created the alphabet.
beirutnationalmuseum.com

Limousine/taxi

Charlie Taxi
Can arrange for chauffeur service and taxi cabs.
 + 961 1 285 710
charlietaxi.com

Transport
Buses
There are both government and privately owned bus services that operate a hail-and-ride system.

Fitness
Good gym
Fitness First at Serail
Downtown Beirut. Non-members pay $30 (€23) for use of swimming pool, gym and classes.
+ 961 1 999 901