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Beirut

Beirut has always stood its ground as a kind of playground for Arabs and Europeans in search of oriental frisson. With a return to political stability (though no one knows for how long), hotels such as the Four Seasons and Le Gray have opened their doors and high power fashion names like Hermes and Louis Vuitton are now gracing the gleaming new Souks. They’ve come hand in hand with new art galleries, and chic Bed & Breakfasts. Add to the mix, legendary hospitality, a famed party scene and layers of history, and you have a city with a unique patina that visitors and locals cannot seem to get enough of.
 

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Essentials

01 Make sure your passport is free of Israeli stamps.
02 Visas can be obtained at the airport.
03 Arrange pickup to avoid being overcharged by airport taxis.
04 Don't sweat the Arabic, the answer will invariably come in English or French.
05 Addresses can be approximate. Agree on price and jump in a "taxi service".

Hotels
Affordable and well located
Palm Beach Hotel
Sea Road, Aïn Mreisseh
+ 961 1 372 000
palmbeachbeirut.com

Dependable and stylish
Albergo
(Relais & Chateaux)
137 Abdel Wahab el Inglizi St, Ashrafieh
+ 961 1 339 797
albergobeirut.com

Premium
Four Seasons
1418 Prof. Wafic Sinno Avenue, Minet el Hosn
+ 961 1 761 000
fourseasons/beirut

Dining
Fast Lebanese breakfast
Zaatar w Zeit
Bliss Street
+ 961 1 365 778
www.zaatarwzeit.net

Leisurely breakfast
Café Paul
581 George Haddad Avenue, Gemmayzeh
+ 961 1 570 170

Mid-morning coffee
Rawda
Seaside Manara
(next to Luna Park)
+ 961 1 743 348

Lunch with friends
Tawlet Souk el Tayeb
Nahr Street, Chalhoub Bldg (facing Spoiler Center), Mar Mikhael
+ 961 1 448 129
tawlet.com

Lunch on your own
Boubouffe
(serves shwarma and Lebanese mezze)
Saint-Louis St, Mar Mitr
+ 961 1 200 408


Fish Restaurant
Chez Sami
Old Seaside Road, Jounieh
(Beirut suburb)
+ 961 9 646 064


Afternoon tea/drink
Balima
Saifi Square
+ 961 1 985 295

Dinner with friends
Casablanca
Deir Aïn Mreisseh Street, Aïn Mreisseh
+ 961 1 369 334

Big dinner with friends
Centrale
Mar Maroun Street, Gemmayzeh
+ 961 1 575 858

Dinner for two
Bread
Gouraud Street, (Dragonfly bldg), Geymmayzeh
+ 961 1 566 506

Late drinks
Torino Express
7 Gouraud Street, Gemmayzeh
+ 961 3 611 101

Midnight snacks
Barbar
(open 24 hours)
Spears Street, Hamra; every taxi driver knows it
+ 961 1 379 778
Reading
Newsstand
Papercup
Pharaoh Street, Agopian Bldg, + 961 1 443 083
www.papercupstore.com

Basics
Pharmacie Le Gabriel
Independence Avenue, Ashrafieh
+ 961 1 324 686

Books
El Bourj
Martyr's Square, at the back of An Nahar Building
+ 961 1 973 797

Fitness
Good Gym
Lifestyle Health Club
Ras Beirut, Al Mada Bldg
+ 961 1 366555
lifestyleslebanon.com
OR
Fitness DomeClub
Crown Plaza Hotel, Hamra
+961 1 739 042
US$ 25 for daily pass

Shopping
Something you can't get anywhere else

Fashion and crafts at les Artisans du Liban et d'Orient
Aïn Mreisseh or Mreissé (opposite Palm Beach Hotel)
+ 961 1 362 610

Lost luggage - where to buy shirts, socks and underwear
ABC Mall
Ashrafieh
+ 961 1 212 888

Something for the kids
"I Love Beirut" bibs from Sunflower Mkhallassiyé, Saifi Village
+ 961 1 999 393

Something for someone you love
Bowls and platters by Karen Chekerdjian at Orient 499
499 Omar Daouk Street,
Ain Mreisseh
+ 961 1 269 499
orient499.com
Two-hour tour

01
Walk in Downtown Beirut
The city centre, a no-man's land during the war, is now gleaming and stylish.

02
Beirut National Museum

Meet the Phoenicians, the mysterious civilisation that created the alphabet.
beirutnationalmuseum.com

Limousine/taxi
Charlie Taxi
Can arrange for chauffeur service and taxi cabs.
+ 961 1 285 710
charlietaxi.com

Transport
Buses
There are both government and privately owned bus services that operate a hail-and-ride system.

Fitness
Good gym
Fitness Dome
Crown Plaza Hotel, Hamra
+ 961 1 739 042
$25 for daily pass